Preventing Season in Bitches

We are often asked whether it is a good idea to stop bitches coming into season and, if it is, what is the best way of doing it. What we will try to do in this leaflet is to set out the options to help you make an informed choice.

Should we stop seasons?

The advantages of stopping seasons are that it prevents unwanted pregnancies, is more hygienic in bitches that live in the house, prevents false pregnancies, stops you having to confine the bitch during the time she is in season and prevents dogs hanging around the house and garden causing damage and making a nuisance of themselves. Spaying, which is surgically removing the ovaries and womb, also stops the development of ovarian/uterine cancer and infected wombs (pyometra), reduces the incidence of sugar diabetes and, if done before the second season, reduces the incidence of mammary cancer by 50% and helps to prevent the bitch getting overweight when older. The disadvantages of stopping seasons are few and seem to depend on the method chosen.

Should they have a litter first?

We do not think that there are any advantages in allowing most bitches to have a litter first, especially as there are already far more dogs about than families want. Taking into account the increased health problems, especially mammary cancer, in bitches that have had puppies when compared with bitches which were spayed before their first season, we would certainly not recommend it.

What methods are available?

There are basically two methods available: Spaying and Delvosteron Injections.

Spaying. For most bitches, especially if it can be done before her second season, this is the method of choice for the reasons given earlier. The disadvantages are that the coats of springers and setters are likely to be affected and become thicker and more woolly and there is also an increased chance of spayed bitches leaking urine as they get older. This is especially common in Weimeraners, Dobermans, Spaniels, Setters, Old English Sheepdogs and some other traditionally docked breeds. Urinary incontinence, however, is usually easily controlled by medication. 

If bitches are spayed when they are very young they can get a bit “leggy” and there seems to be an increased incidence and earlier onset of arthritis. We think this is caused by the delayed growth plate closure. Some breeds are also more prone to some types of cancer, especially Haemangiosarcomas if they are spayed early. Further if a bitch is spayed before her vulva has developed properly are likely to have problems with urine scalding of the skin when they are older.

Bitches spayed when they are older are prone to putting on weight and must have their food controlled very strictly.

Delvosteron Injections. These are a type of hormone injection that control seasons well with very few problems. Bitches on routine injections are less likely to put on weight and can lose it if dieted. Springers and setters keep their fine coats and bitches are no more likely to leak urine than untreated dogs. It increases the incidence of Pyometras from roughly 17.2% in normal bitches to 17.4% in treated bitches, which, we feel, is basically negligible. If we decide to use the drug we need to give one injection to start with, repeated again in 3 months and again in 4 months and then she needs routine injections every 5 months. We recommend continuing the injections indefinitely, and we have certainly seen 13-year-old dogs get pregnant if we stop them. We routinely send out reminder cards when the next injection is due and a further reminder a month later if we have not seen you.

The disadvantages are that a few dogs develop false pregnancies a month or so after the injection and will have to have another injection then. Also, we have known dogs to develop white patches or bald spots where the injections have been given. This is usually confined to whippets and greyhounds and in these breeds, we often give the injection over the tummy.

Unfortunately, a few dogs find that the injection stings for a few minutes after it has been given and they get very worried about coming to the surgery. We recommend these injections in bitches where we decide that we want to prevent seasons but for some reason do not want to operate.

Want to Breed later?

We would strongly recommend that you do not use any form of drug to prevent seasons. We have seen a few occasions when bitches treated with Delvosteron do not come back into season for years, and we know a number of breeders who feel that the injections cause a long term reduction in fertility. The manufacturers of Delvosteron have a lot of evidence to show that bitches do come back into season naturally and usually conceive normally, but we feel that you are taking a risk and cannot recommend it.

We therefore recommend spaying bitches before their second season if you do not plan to breed from them. If for some reason we decide it is in the dog's best interests not to spay, we would recommend Delvosteron injections as long as you do not plan to breed from her later. In this we are supported by the British Veterinary Association, the Pet Health Council, the Companion Animal Study Centre at Cambridge University, the RSPCA and other knowledgeable bodies.

When to Spay?

We recommend that you make an appointment three months after your bitch’s first season.

Pregnancy normally lasts 61 - 63 days in the bitch and 63 - 67 days in the cat and is calculated from the first day that the female would allow itself to be mated.  However, it‘s not uncommon for litters to be born up to 5 days either side of the expected date.  The date of mating can also be very useful in deciding if the litter is overdue, so if you know it, mark it on your calendar immediately. The first problem is to decide whether your pet is pregnant or not as false pregnancies occur in both dogs and cats.

False pregnancy (phantom pregnancy) is seen mainly in bitches, and can be very misleading.  Signs are usually seen from a few weeks after she is on heat - they include nest-making, enlargement of the mammary glands and usually milk production.  Her abdomen may swell up so that she looks pregnant, and changes in temperament are occasionally seen.  This happens because her hormones are ‘confused‘ and they ‘think‘ that she is pregnant.  Veterinary treatment may be needed to return things to normal , so if you think your bitch has a problem do make an appointment to be seen.

In cats, false pregnancy is uncommon.  Your cat may start nest-building and crying after a mating has taken place, but she has not conceived.  Milk production is not usually seen.

Pregnancy Diagnosis

The four main methods are:

• Feeling the womb for unborn pups or kittens This can be done between Day 21 and Day 28 by your vet.  This is not totally reliable, especially in overweight or nervous pets, but can give an indication.
• Blood Tests.  This can be done from 21 days after mating in dogs and is now very accurate.
• X-rays. These can be taken after Day 45.  The procedure is relatively expensive, but is very reliable and does not damage the unborn puppies or kittens.
• Ultrasonic Scan This can be done at any stage after 30 days, and gets easier and more accurate as time goes on.

Apart from the fact that you will want to prepare yourself for the birth, it is also important to know whether your pet is pregnant from the point of view of feeding, worming and providing a place for her to be with her litter.

Whilst discussing testing we would like to bring to your attention a blood test we can carry out here on bitches in season called PREMATE which tells us the best time to mate her.  Mating at the wrong time has been shown to be the commonest cause of bitches not getting pregnant.  So, if you are having problems, do discuss the test with us before she comes into season.

Feeding

As a rough guide, the following quantities should be given:

• Week 1 to 5 : Normal 
• Week 5 to 7 : Increase by an extra 25% compared to normal.
• Week 7 to 9 : Increase by an extra 50% compared to normal.

A complete commercial diet, ie: tinned or dried food together with a good all round multi-vitamin and mineral supplement e.g. Pet Tabs, will provide everything your pet needs.  If you are not feeding this sort of food we would recommend that you get some expert advice to ensure that the diet that you are giving is nutritionally correct. She should enter pregnancy at the correct weight for her breed - if she is too fat or thin there may be serious problems during birth however if you feel that your pet is either over or under weight do not try to correct this during pregnancy without expert advice as it can be very dangerous not only for the mother but also for her young. We usually advise changing to a food designed for lactating bitches 2 - 3 days before the pups are born. If the bitch is being fed on some diets we may advise that a Calcium and Vitamin D supplement e.g. Collocal D, should be added to the feed during the last 2 - 3 days of pregnancy, but don‘t overdo it as an excess can cause more problems in itself.

With many dogs and cats you may need to feed little and often to enable them to take in enough food during the latter stages, as the presence of pups or kittens in their womb may not allow the stomach to expand sufficiently.

If you are uncertain about any of this, it is probably best to pop your pet in to see us to have a check-up and discuss her diet.

Worming

Female dogs and cats both have an unusual and fascinating way of ‘storing‘ roundworm young in their tissues, where the young worms are quite inactive.  As birth approaches, these young worms are activated and infect the pups or kittens both in the womb and in the milk after birth.  The best treatment for worms is to give a wormer that will kill these young worms before mating the mother.  If it is too late to do this, there are worming regimes that can be used during pregnancy, but these are much more expensive and probably not so effective.

We would recommend that you contact us before mating the mother in order to find out what would be the best drugs to use and regime to follow in your particular circumstances.

There is no need to worm for tapeworm or hookworm unless you see evidence of these. If you do need to worm for these be very careful what drug you use as many of the easily available drugs are highly toxic to the unborn young.

Whelping/Kittening Accommodation

Unfortunately, your pet‘s idea of where she wants to have her pups or kittens will often differ very much from yours!  The best way to get her used to the idea of a new place to sleep is to prepare this and introduce her to it  at least three weeks before the birth is due.  This is often where people go wrong - she can‘t be expected to bring her cherished young into the world in a strange place, any more than we would wish to do so in the next door neighbour‘s house.

For a bitch, a whelping box is ideally made of wood and large enough for her to move around freely, ie: twice her body length square.  Sides should be 4 - 6 inches high with a door of 3 inches high in one place, so that her enlarged ‘undercarriage‘ is not repeatedly knocked whenever she leaves the box!  Bars can be placed 3 inches in from the walls to prevent her from crushing her pups against the sides.  The bottom of the box should be off the floor to prevent colds and draughts.  Heating to provide a temperature of 80-85°F is needed, and an overhead lamp is useful here.  Lots of shredded newspaper provides a very good bedding as it is warm and easily changed and disposed of, so get plenty in.  ‘Vet-bed‘ is also very useful, and can be obtained from pet-shops or ordered through us.  The box should be sited in a fairly quiet, warm, draught-free room, but not so remote that your dog feels torn between her litter and yourself.  Bitches prefer a protected area, so a lowish ceiling and a wall or furniture on two or three sides of the box will make her feel more comfortable.

Cats prefer even more protection - a high-sided box on all four sides is best and a blanket may be placed over the top as a roof.   A small door off the ground is all that is needed.  A large cardboard box can often be converted and can be placed in any room near the rest of the family.

Despite the most careful planning there will be some dogs or cats who will not concede to your wishes.  There is no point in making them give birth in a strange room, as dogs and cats can stop contractions almost at will if they are not feeling at home in their surroundings, and this may cause complications during the birth.  Overall, the best way is probably to accept defeat and allow your pet to give birth where she wants, whether it‘s your bed, your bath or even your lap and then transfer her to her designated accommodation. However make sure you have a plastic sheet handy as things can get very messy!

One final word about cats who are notorious for moving the whole litter around the house to the most inconvenient place.  If this should happen, you should first suspect that the accommodation you have provided is inadequate in some way.  This will usually be a lack of shelter or maybe a room which is just too busy for her.  If this does not appear to be the case, then do not be afraid to move the litter back to her designated home - you may need to do this several times, but it is better than having a litter of kittens on your bed for the next month! She will usually get the message.

Now we arrive at the part you‘re all worried about!  Don‘t panic - during this time your pet is going through a wide variety of changes - both physical and emotional - and she may not seem like the same animal that you know so well.  As long as you keep an eye on the ‘Deadlines‘, all will go well.

The whole process of birth can be divided into 4 obvious stages:

1. Preparation for labour - especially in the two weeks before birth.
2. First stage of labour - the last few hours before birth when the unborn pup or kitten (foetus) is positioning itself.
3. Second stage of labour - visible contractions occur, and the young are born.
4. Third stage of labour - the afterbirth (placenta) is passed.

So try to look out for all of these stages - one should follow the other and if they don‘t appear to be doing so, this will alert you to check the ‘DEADLINES‘.

Preparation for labour

This period is basically the two weeks before the birth.  During this time many changes in behaviour and physical condition may be seen.  Your pet will also be eating a great deal more than usual (see section on feeding during pregnancy).  Unfortunately, the changes seen during this time are very, very, unreliable.  You will come across a lot of people who are very insistent that certain signs are only seen at a set number of hours before birth. I‘m afraid that dogs and cats are far too much like ourselves in that one dog or cat may always show the same signs at a set time, but this does not apply to the rest of the population!  we have set out a number of signs you may see and which are not reliable with regards to timing, and a number which are.  The figures are taken from a survey of 160 bitches whelping.  Unfortunately, there is no such survey of cats kittening, but the signs can be taken as being the same.

Variable signs

These may or may not be seen:

• Nest-building. Average 3-4 days; BUT up to 3 weeks.
• Vomiting. Average 3-4 days; BUT up to 2 weeks.
• Milk in nipples. Average 2 days  ; BUT up to 1 week.
• Restlessness. Average 2 days  ; BUT up to 2 weeks.
• Scratching at bedding. Average 24 hours; BUT up to 1 week.
• Reduced appetite.Average 24 hours; BUT up to 1 week.
• Clear, thick vaginal discharge.  Average 12 hrs; BUT up to 4 weeks!

(N.B. The discharge may be a light green colour, but should not be dark green, nor a thick, pus-like discharge.)

Reliable signs

These all occur less than 48 hours before birth, although not all of them will be seen:

• Production of a LOT of milk.
• Persistent shivering
• Faster breathing.
• Licking the vagina regularly.
• Circling in the nest.
• Seeking protection near their owner.
• Fall in body temperature to 97 - 99°F - within 24 hours.  This is very reliable but only in dogs.

Progesterone testing kits can be used to monitor the end of a pregnancy. The blood test will show a drop in progesterone before parturition commences in the bitch. If the blood progesterone level is still high and ultrasonic examination confirms strong heartbeats, then the  bitch will be re-examined the next day.

First stage of labour

”During this stage, the muscles of the cervix and vagina relax to provide a ‘birth canal‘, the womb contracts (you can‘t see this) and the puppy or kitten is pushed towards the birth canal.  This stage ends when the pressure of the head of the foetus on the cervix causes a hormone to be produced which in turn makes the mother have strong contractions and push the foetus out."

Well, that‘s the theory, but what do you see?  This varies between dogs and cats.

In DOGS, the typical signs are RESTLESSNESS, BED-MAKING, PANTING AND SHIVERING, ANOREXIA, occasional VOMITING and VULVAL LICKING.  Some bitches will prefer company, while others will seek solitude;  don‘t take this personally - it‘s all pure instinct.  NO signs of contraction are seen, except maybe a faint ripple of the abdominal wall.  These signs will ALWAYS increase in intensity as time progresses, but over a fairly long period of time.

This stage lasts 6 - 24 hours on average, but will vary from 0 to 36 hours!  The longer times are usually seen in nervous bitches whelping for the first time.

In CATS, 2 days before parturition queens become RESTLESS, may STOP EATING and start searching for a SECLUDED PLACE to give birth. Milk may also be present for up to 7 days before the birth. There may be some PANTING, SHIVERING, turning in CIRCLES and constant LICKING, and you will see occasional CRYING (especially those vocal Siamese!) and she will often make TRIPS to her box to nest-build.  Straining at the litter tray is also often seen.  This stage lasts 6 - 48 hours in cats.

Deadlines - for dogs and cats.

• This stage lasting more than 12 hours.
• The signs mentioned above becoming less and less pronounced, ie: the opposite of normal, and no puppies or kittens have been born.
• Dark green vulval discharge seen (dogs); dark brown discharge seen (cats) and no puppies or kittens have been born.
• Any pregnancy lasting longer than the expected time, with no signs of first stage labour.

IN ALL THE ABOVE CASES, PLEASE PHONE THE SURGERY

The beginning of this stage is marked by the start of visible straining (contractions) of the abdominal muscles.

The foetus is enclosed in two fluid-filled bags or linings.  When it is in the birth canal, the contractions push it against the pelvic bones, the outer bag bursts and a thin, clear fluid pours from the mother ‘s vagina.  This is known as ‘breaking the waters‘or ‘ breaking the water bag‘.  It will not always be noticed, but when it is, it means that the birth should occur within the next hour.

The newborn pup or kitten is then forced out through the vagina and at this stage will still be within the inner lining.  The mother will usually tear this if it has not already happened to allow the pup or kitten to breathe.  The mother will then lick the newborn vigorously - this being vital for encouraging breathing.  The umbilical cord is usually either broken during birth or the mother may bite through it herself.  At the same time the afterbirth will usually be passed and this is often eaten by the mother (recycling the nutrients!) - see third stage of labour.  The afterbirth is dark green in dogs and dark brown in cats.

During this stage your pet will often appear more relaxed than during the first stage and she will lie on her side most of the time.  Between straining, bitches usually pant a lot, though cats do this much less so.  During the actual expulsion of the pup or kitten, the mother may cry or scream - this is particularly so in cats.  Although this is undoubtedly distressing to all of us, it is all part of the natural process in animals as well as humans and it is best to put on a brave face for your pet, who needs all the calm consolation she can get.  She will often lick her vagina, paddle with her feet and may push herself around with these movements.

Unlike us, dogs and cats have several newborn to deliver and this is usually done in a STOP-START manner, in other words she will deliver several, have a rest and then deliver a few more.

In DOGS, the first pup is usually born less than 30 minutes after straining starts - although this may take up to 2 hours.  Following this there is often a period of rest which usually lasts 15 to 60 minutes, but may be as long as 3-4 hours.  Straining then restarts and one or more newborn are then produced.  At this stage, the birth canal has already been stretched during the first birth and subsequent pups should arrive after less than 1 hour of straining.  Periods of rest and straining will then follow until the whole litter is born.

The whole whelping usually lasts 4 to 12 hours, but may last up to 24 hours, depending on the number of pups and the progression of the birth, so stock up with black coffee!  In most cases, the pup can be left with the mother while she delivers the rest of the litter, but be careful that large bitches don‘t crush their pups.

In CATS, the timing and the manner of the birth is much the same, except that the rest period between births is often much longer.  Several kittens may be born, then there is a period of up to 24 hours rest before several more are born in succession.  This is not always seen and more commonly the cat will have her whole litter in less than 12 hours.

In both dogs and cats, 60% of newborn come headfirst and 40% tail-first.  The latter is not a ‘breech‘ birth, in which the foetal hindlimbs point forwards; in a tail-first birth the hindlimbs point backwards and the mother can deliver the foetus on her own, albeit with a bit more effort.

When should you help?

Firstly, check the list of deadlines at the end of this section.  There really shouldn‘t be anything that you need to do, but here are a few things which you can attempt before calling for help.

• If the newborn arrives in its inner lining and the mother does not remove it immediately, then break it yourself (it‘s very flimsy) and clear any mucus out of the pup or kitten‘s mouth with your finger.  Place the pup or kitten at its mother‘s head to be licked.
• If the umbilical cord is not broken at birth, don‘t panic - there is no urgency.  While it is present the newborn are receiving blood from the mother.  Gently tear the cord with your fingers about one inch from the newborn and place him/her at the mother‘s head to be licked.  The cord can be tied with cotton if it bleeds a lot.
• If the puppy or kitten appears to be stuck halfway out and hasn‘t moved despite straining by the mother for several minutes, or its tongue starts to look blue, grasp it gently as high up as possible, preferably after wrapping it in a clean facecloth to prevent slipping, and gently pull. This must be done VERY GENTLY and preferably in time with the mother‘s contractions.  Be careful as cats will often bite or scratch if you do this.  IF YOU HAVE NO SUCCESS RING THE VET IMMEDIATELY.
• Artificial respiration.  This is useless unless there is a heartbeat - this can be felt just behind the elbows at the bottom of the chest.  First, remove all mucus from the mouth with a dry cloth or cotton  wool.  Then breathe into the pup or kitten‘s mouth in short blows so that the chest can be seen expanding, but do not over fill it with air.  Do not touch the pup or kitten‘s mouth, as some of their germs can cause disease in humans.  On the whole, this is not a useful procedure - pup or kittens that need this will very rarely survive more than a few days.

Deadlines - for dogs and cats.

• 30 MINUTES after vigorous straining begins - and no birth.
• 1 HOUR after the ‘water bag‘ bursts and no birth.
• 1-2 HOURS after weak and/or intermittent straining begins and no birth.
• 30-60 MINUTES after the appearance of a dark green (dogs) or dark brown (cats) vaginal discharge and still no birth.
• Pup or kitten visible in the birth canal but seemingly stuck.

Interval of more than 4 HOURS between pups or kittens when you think there are more to come.

Bitch or cat is obviously ill - most commonly they cannot stand if forced to, or there may be a constant stream of blood from the vagina (a drip is not unusual), or constant twitching of the muscles (do not confuse this with shivering which stops and starts).

IN ALL OF THE ABOVE CASES PLEASE PHONE THE SURGERY.

During this stage, the placenta (afterbirth) which feeds the pup or kitten in the womb is passed out of the vagina.  Each foetus has its own placenta.  In dogs, it is a dark green colour; in cats, it is dark brown/red.

This part actually occurs between births and thus is not strictly a third separate stage.  What usually happens is that a pup/kitten is born and its afterbirth follows it straight away.  However, often two foetuses are born and then two afterbirths, or very occasionally the afterbirth can even be passed before the birth (who said it was all straightforward!).  The main point is not to worry about this stage too much.  It is not an URGENT problem if it is not passed within a few days.  However, it helps to know what it is when it‘s produced.

Most mothers will eat some, if not all, of the afterbirth and this helps to recycle all the protein that is found within it.  This may occasionally cause the mother to vomit it up again, but don‘t worry as that‘s not unusual.  It is not vital to the mother so it does no harm to wrap it in newspaper and burn it.  This is probably advisable if it is obviously infected, ie; looks creamy and smells foul, eg; the afterbirth of a dead foetus, as this may make the mother feel very sick, although it is unlikely to do any more harm than that.

Because the mother often eats the afterbirth very quickly after it is produced, it is very difficult to count the afterbirths as they are produced.  The reason for trying to do this is that occasionally they can be retained in the womb and set up an infection there a few days later, in which case veterinary treatment will be necessary.

Calling the veterinary surgeon

All veterinary practices are required to provide a 24 hr service, so you can get help at any time of day or night (however please don‘t expect the vet to be sitting in the surgery waiting for your telephone call at 3 a.m. - she will almost certainly be asleep in bed!).  It helps if you know how long each stage has lasted.  You will usually be asked to bring your pet down to the surgery.  This is not being awkward on our part, but merely to provide the best facilities for dealing with any problem quickly.  It will do your pet no harm to have a short ride in the car and it is surprising how often the problem has solved itself during the journey - although we don‘t recommend you try this as a form of treatment.

You are now through the all worrying part of giving birth and it‘s probably taken almost as much out of you as it has your pet, so get some sleep as the next few months will be almost as tiring!

Routine Veterinary Check

We would recommend that all bitches and puppies are checked by us during the next working day after the birth. This allows us to check for all the problems we will be discussing in the next few pages, to give any advice that is necessary and to give the bitch an injection to ensure that the womb contracts properly if necessary.

Now that your puppies or kittens have been born, it is easiest to deal with them separately, so I will go through a few common problems that the mother may have during the next few weeks first.

The Mother

After the birth is complete, you will often notice her lie down and fall asleep as if satisfied that a good job has been done and I think you‘ll agree that she deserves a rest.  During the next few weeks, she will often be very possessive of her young and it is best to allow as few people as possible to see them and then only those that she is familiar with.  The young should be handled as little as possible, especially in the first ten days or so.

The next few weeks will be very draining for the mother who has to feed a litter of hungry young and keep herself in a reasonable condition as well, so any health problems must be treated seriously, as all those mouths are totally reliant on her well-being.

Health Problems

Retained afterbirth.  If all of the afterbirth is not expelled during the birth, an infection is likely to be set up in the womb within a few days.  Often this will not affect the mother but if she is off her food or dull, or has a smelly vaginal discharge, then call the Vet.

Bleeding from the vagina.  Some blood stained or dark red discharge is commonly seen for up to two  weeks after the birth.  This should never be more than an occasional drip.  If it is more than this, call the Vet.

Mastitis.  This is seen as a very sore-looking, red, tight-skinned swelling in one or more of the mammary glands.  The pain or infection may cause the mother to be off her food and unwell, in which case the puppies or kittens will usually be unsettled.  There may be an infection, but some bitches can show the same signs merely due to too much milk!  If you're not sure, call the Vet.

Eclampsia (milk fever).  This is by far the most serious and urgent of problems after birth.  The disease is usually caused by a lack of Calcium in the mother‘s body, because of the drain that milk production makes on it.  This deficiency will cause problems with the muscles, brain and heart and can be fatal if untreated.  Unfortunately, the signs are not clear-cut.  Most commonly one sees a change in behaviour - very restless, often aggressive, unwilling to eat and whining a lot.  This then develops to a state of collapse and twitching of the muscles.

It is usually seen at any stage between birth and 2-3 weeks afterwards and is more common in small, excitable breeds of dog, but can be seen in large dogs or cats, especially those with large litters.

Veterinary advice should be sought URGENTLY - treatment is very successful if caught early on, so treat it as an emergency if you suspect it.  For prevention see section on feeding during pregnancy and post-natally.

Feeding

During lactation, the mother needs a huge amount of food to allow her to feed both herself and a litter of hungry pups/kittens.

Plenty of water is needed.  Milk can be given, but a lot of adult bitches and some cats develop diarrhoea if too much is given and this won‘t help her keep her condition. We would recommend using a specially formulated milk replacer, eg RCW Canine/Feline Milk Substitute or, if that is unavailable, Shirley‘s Lactol as a supplement for the mother and the puppies/kittens as a lot of pets are allergic to cow’s milk now.

As far as food goes the mother needs to eat 2-3 times her normal quantity by the middle of the third week of lactation!  One big problem is getting her to eat that much.  High-energy diets specially designed for lactating bitches are by far the best diet, however it is possible to use their normal diet in greater quantities.  3 to 5 meals daily may be necessary to help her eat enough to produce the milk her puppies need.  In cats, the mother will usually take a certain amount from her own body stores and a loss of body weight is usually seen.  This is not a problem as she will make this up after the kittens are weaned, but it can cause difficulties if she becomes pregnant again too quickly after the kittens are weaned.

During lactation, unless you use a high quality diet especially designed for feeding to lactating pets, we will often advise giving a good multi-vitamin/mineral supplement eg: Pet Tabs or Canovel tablets and perhaps also a Calcium and Vitamin D supplement eg: Collocal D or Stress, however do discuss this with us first.  It may also be advised to give sterilised bone flour during lactation in large dogs if you are not feeding a diet especially made for lactating large breed dogs.

You must be especially careful if feeding a home-made diet as many of these are deficient in important vitamins and minerals especially tripe, which contains almost no calcium at all and it is wise to get advice from us about these diets.

The high level of feeding will be necessary for 4-5 weeks after birth, at which time weaning usually starts, and the amount of food can gradually be reduced to normal.

Worming

This should be done at the same time as the pups and we would again recommend using a wormer that will kill the young worms as well as the adults. As situations differ we would suggest that you contact us in order to discuss which wormer and what worming regime would suit your particular circumstances best. There is no need to worm for tapeworm unless there is any sign of such infection.